Last day in Memphis

Today was a little quiet compared to yesterday, but then what could live up to an audience with the King? After breakfast we tried to find two museums, one that was still shut for the winter and one that was just shut. So we took our bags down to the still less-than-busy train station and went to find lunch. Thankfully the Arcade Restaurant, the oldest diner in Memphis, was right across the street. Milkshakes and burgers were on the menu so we indulged.

After that we encountered the other King of Memphis: Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. The huge National Civil Rights Museum is here, built in the converted motel where King was shot. The museum's displays are comprehensive and fascinating. Most discriminatory behaviour in the states was outlawed in the 1850s and 60s, but it took more than a century (and all the work of the civil rights movement) to actually effect change. Some of the displays are questionable - you can sit on the bus next to Rosa Parks and a mechanical bus driver will shout at you to give up your seat - but the power of all the history is undeniable.

After four hours of mostly standing and reading we hobbled back to downtown Memphis in search of a cup of tea. Hannah was deeply disappointed in the offering from the local Starbucks, and believes it's because Americans do not use boiling water. I think it's the lack of bone china and silver teaspoons, but it's true that the last decent cup we had was from Rob in New York (and that was because he had been trained by Kath).

I've switched back to coffee now, and am writing this from the Bluff City cafe near the train station. After cocktails and dinner (more barbecue, of course) we popped in to ask if the train was running on time and the lady on duty said she couldn't tell us until 9.15pm. I didn't bother to pursue it.

We arrive in Chicago tomorrow morning, where my weather widget tells me it's -5'C. It's got 12 hours to get warmer.



Memphis train station. Not busy.



The oldest restaurant in Memphis, they say.



A big museum.



Plaque and wreath commemorating the spot where Martin Luther King was assassinated.



Hannah, cocktails and a strange flaming fountain.

Oh yeah, and we ended up at the stupid Peabody ducks thing again. It was even more disappointing today.